Questions/POLLS/Mentors Topic -  How is this clay secured? see pic inside (289 views) Notify me whenever anyone posts in this discussion.Subscribe
 
From: Melody019/23/16 9:20 AM 
To: SanneL  (5 of 6) 
 71347.5 in reply to 71347.1 

Hi SanneL, I think one would need a strong glue.

Pasting info below on my favorite glue. So far I have never found it to fail, except on cured Kato clay (which may need the surface roughed up a little and/or a brief alcohol wash with a cotton-tipped swab).

'Epoxy 220' two part clear (though slightly amber) epoxy that is mixed for a MINIMUM of one minute. It's a slow setting glue used in electronic and mechanical industries for superior bonding of non-porous components. Hardens in 8 hours (Hardens in 30 minutes underneath a heat lamp). Available from www.firemountaingems.com and www.satincord.com. Cannot be shipped outside of the USA. I have also seen it in some larger craft stores.

It is also available in the 'Epoxy 330' form which dries quicker, but I have read is doesn't form quite as strong a bond. I also had a reaction to E6000 several years ago and after reading the warnings on the label I started looking for an alternative. I've used it in making my jewelry for 3 years to glue metal to non-porous surfaces like cured polymer clay. I've never actually used it on stone or glass, but I assume it would work well.

 

Mixing directions

http://www.satincord.com/htm/kumihimo-finishing.htm

Epoxy must be mixed thoroughly. In many cases where an epoxy bond fails, it is because it is not mixed well enough. When you mix epoxy, it goes through several stages before it is ready to be used. It will first turn cloudy. Then it will get bubbles. Eventually (after at least a minute), it will clear up again. Make sure you mix until it reaches the clear stage before using.

 

Anita in AZ

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From: SanneL9/23/16 9:24 AM 
To: Melody01  (6 of 6) 
 71347.6 in reply to 71347.5 

Thank you!! That was very informative!

 

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