Opinion Polls: Delphi's Polling Place

Hosted by Cstar1

Opinion polls on all subjects. Opinions? Heck yes, we have opinions - but we're *always* nice about it, even when ours are diametrically opposed to yours. Register your vote today!

  • 3967
    MEMBERS
  • 71252
    MESSAGES
  • 27
    POSTS TODAY

Discussions

Posts   The Newsy You: News of Today

Started Jul-14 by kizmet1; 1108 views.
kizmet1

From: kizmet1

Jul-17

I could probably fill a garbage can with all the heating pads I have had, lol. You think my door needs a heating pad? lol
I replaced it once, 7 years ago. It did not close all the way and would open if I didn't stand there to see it touch the ground and stay there. Eventually, it quit altogether.
This time it is different. Will not move at all, the motor just "spins". It is a top of the line Sears. Was only using it once a week to roll my grocery cart out and in.
  • Edited July 17, 2020 9:02 pm  by  kizmet1
Showtalk
Staff

From: Showtalk

Jul-17

No, not your door, you need one and a new door.

Jeri (azpaints) said:

Just read that some claw footed tubs hold 60 gallons of water.

A full tub bath per day - assuming an average person displaces about 15 to 20 gallons of water. Take your weight, and divide by 8, to get your water volume displacement in the tub, and subtract that from the tub capacity.

Or if you don't mind a lot of water in the floor, you can replicate Archimedes' famous Eureka moment. Running down the street naked shouting "Eureka - I have found it" when discovering the principle of buoyancy is optional - preferrably should not be done unless you live adjacent to a clothing optional area - lol.

But - 60 gallons per day would be 1,800 gallons per month if one filled and drained the tub every single day.

Back the last time I lived where we were on city or development water as opposed to a water well, some 40 years ago, it cost about a nickel per 42 gallons of water. I'd guess maybe 4x that now, so maybe a quarter to 50 cents to fill a tub these days? I think I read that it costs about $300 to fill a typical 100,000 gallon swimming pool in Midland, TX.

One could also challenge an unusual water bill by doing all the math of just what the upper limit that the plumbing could possibly flow through the meter in 30 days between readings, and do a nice little PowerPoint presentation supported by a spreadsheet and all the math as to how it is physically impossible to get that much water through the meter, then illustrate just what a tsunami that kind of amount of water actually amounts to, complete with a Google Earth image of the property showing you don't have an Olympic swimming pool to fill, and don't have a 20 acre lush lawn that has been well watered.

In this day and age, one can Google for the flow rate formulas, where you put in the pipe diameter, square it, multiply by pi, divide by 4, to get cross sectional area of the pipe. Put in the length of the pipe to get the friction, put in the pressure (and you can rig up a gauge and measure the water pressure - take a picture of it and show all the apparatus you rigged up to get the measurements).

From that you can now solve the equations with all the variables filled in, and come up with a maximum possible flow rate in gallons per minute, liters per hour, or whatever other units you choose to calculate.

Now there's 1,440 minutes in a day so if you got, say, gallons per minute, multiply that by 1,440 and finally multiply that by 30, and you have the absolute theoretical maximum water flow that could possibly go through your plumbing in a month with everything wide open.

Now, you start calculating the volume of that many gallons of water. A good thing to hit some water board people with is how many times that would fill up an entire house completely full from floor to ceiling.

So take your square footage and multiply by 8, to get the volume in cubic feet. Divide by the number of gallons in a cubic foot. Illustrate that the amount they claim you used would have filled the house completely full. Where is the flood damage? Where is the street underminement from that much water spewing out for a whole month? Where is the foundation subsidence from soil liquefaction?

You see where I'm going. Get an engineer with a lot of experience in liquid flow calculations to check your math - you don't want to really get egg all over your face with a misplaced decimal point somewhere.

But the idea is to show by exhaustive calculation and physical evidence that there is absolutely no way you could have used as much water as they claimed.

And if they balk, you could always post it on something like Next Door, complete with the supporting "chalkboard full of math equations" explaining exactly how the calculations were done like you might to the math teacher in an exam like the kind we were given back when I was in school.

See the post I made to AZPaints about calculating the absolute theoretical upper limit amount of water that could pass through your meter in a month, versus the "bath a day" soak.

This winter I'm going to rig up a Jacuzzi heater and pump in the tub I rigged up in the shop, inspired by a friend of mine's setup. It cost about $80 for the setup compared to, say, $5000 for a real Jacuzzi plus another $10k to actually build a dedicated building for it.

Then if a soak in a tub is needed, a thermostat could keep the water at, say, 90 degrees f, slowly circulating by using a variable speed drive motor or a belt / pulley or gear setup to move the water through at, say, 2 or 3 gallons per minute.

A field improvised heater is to plumb and wire up (with proper safety grounding and GFCI circuit) an electric water heater element. Probably a 1.5 kw unit is adequate and only runs about $10 or so. You can fit the heater into a section of 1 inch to 1.25 inch pipe and screw it right into a 316 stainless steel T fitting. The pump runs the water thru the T, over the heater element, then into the tub, with the pump intake near the bottom.

You want to have the heater power tied to the pump motor power so the heater cannot be operated if the pump is not circulating water. You could also use a flow rate switch that if the flow falls below a certain minimum safe rate, it kills power to the heater upstream of the thermostat.

It is a little more of an advanced DIY rig, but should be fairly simple and rugged. Also a foot long piece of pipe holding a heater element and connected to a solid earth ground is rather compact and efficient.

For summer use, you might actually even want to run the water through a refrigeration setup to keep it from warming up too much, really important when it's 118 degrees F in the room surrounding the tub.

An old drinking fountain, re-plumbed, makes a great water chiller. You only need about a gallon per minute circulation rate through the plumbing to keep the water cooled to a comfortable level.

kizmet1

From: kizmet1

Jul-17

Why a new door?
kizmet1

From: kizmet1

Jul-17

I have a jacuzzi type machine that is shaped like a U and hangs over the side if the tub.
kizmet1

From: kizmet1

Jul-17

You should collect all the posts you have left all over Delphi and compile a book.

That is even easier to use because it's self-contained with heater, pump, intake and discharge to keep the water from getting cold during a long soak. Just hang it over the side, set the thermostat, and plug it in.

kizmet1

From: kizmet1

Jul-17

Hmmm. Just what my directions say.

While I don't own one, I've seen them in the past. Don't know where one could buy one today but I might look for one at an estate sale.

TOP