Hi Kim, How wonderful that your Kato "retreat" lentils cure without cracking. Hope we'll be seeing photos.
Your experience with not having Kato PM#1 pieces crack, but having thicker pieces crack is interesting. My previous experience with Kato cracking at PM#1 must have been directly after the formula change, because neither Donna nor Tony seemed to be aware that there was a problem at the time. I make a series of cats pendants/brooches which are sort of my "bread and butter" sellers and about 1 1/2 years ago I lost well over 50 of them to cracking over a VERY LONG month of trials before I gave up and switched back to PREMO.
<<yepper on that 'learning curve' (I typed 'curse' first! LOL that might be more the matter than curve! LOL)....between us clayers we'll figure out SOME WAY to make the changes work....of course once we DO.... they'll make MORE CHANGES!!!!!!!!!! ack!!!!!!!!!!>>
Oh yeah! My past few months have been spent almost entirely on trying to learn to adapt my existing jewelry designs prototypes for use with NEW formulas of 3 brands of clay and learning 'Curse' would probably be FAR more accurate term than curve!!!!!!
<<my pieces that had cracking were more like 1/2" thick or more...and some were made over Ultralight cores....which likely was a problem...and didn't KNOW or realize that the NEWER clay had to be cured at 300+... I'm using my baking soda 'heat sink' inside a closed/lidded tin.>>
Thanks for this info. I have a design of thick appliqued beads with UL cores and I would like to use with white Kato. I will be forewarned now how to cure.
<<I hear ya on the liquid clay not curing...never had that problem...but understand the frustration... I remember issues with using the Miracle Mold with certain types of rubber stamps...think it might have been the aluminum in the rubber or some such thing... been ages...sure the info is somewhere (maybe glassattic.com)>>
Oh Yes, I remember that now. Sulphur, I think.
Happy Claying, and may ALL your pieces cure perfectly.
Anita in AZ