TIPS, TRICKS and TIDBITS -  Amaz Mold Putty + NEW Kato incompatible (259 views) Notify me whenever anyone posts in this discussion.Subscribe
 
From: Melody015/4/12 12:33 PM 
To: All  (1 of 16) 
 69448.1 

FYI, in my recent experiments/experience I have (SADLY!) found that both NEW formula Kato clay and NEW formula Kato Liquid Polyclay MAY no longer be compatible to use with “Amazing Mold Putty”

For specifics, scroll down about 2/3rds of the way to “EDITED May 4, 2012” (in bold blue font) in the following blog post
http://melobeau.blogspot.com/2010/03/faux-talavera-pottery-frog-necklace.html

If anyone here has any first hand knowledge of an easy release, bakeable, putty-type molding compound that they know is compatible with NEW Kato Liquid Polyclay I'd love to know about it!

Anita in AZ
http://MelodyODesigns.artfire.com/
www.melobeau.blogspot.com/
www.flickr.com/photos/melobeau/

  • Edited 5/7/2012 6:51 pm by Melody01
 
 Reply   Options 

 
From: Kim (KCREDCAT) DelphiPlus Member Icon5/4/12 10:59 PM 
To: Melody01  (2 of 16) 
 69448.2 in reply to 69448.1 
Interesting! thanks for letting us know... yeah, the 'new' Kato Clay is causing all sorts of 'issues'...maybe contact them (Tony?) and see what they have to say...if they are aware of it even...  I know that I had to make changes for curing solid Kato pieces...but burying something made with LIQUID Kato in baking soda uh....just would NOT work!

I've never used the Amazing Mold Putty...  I miss the Miracle Mold...that's the only mold material I ever used besides making molds out of polymer clay. 

LOVE YOUR FROGS!!!!!!! way cool!!!!!!

Kim
K.C. Redcat
 

 
From: Melody015/5/12 12:11 AM 
To: Kim (KCREDCAT) DelphiPlus Member Icon  (3 of 16) 
 69448.3 in reply to 69448.2 

Thanks Kim, Yup, the new clay formulas have a WAY big new learning curve. I did notify Tony when I first discovered the incompatibility of the AMP and Kato clay about a year and a half ago. I guess I'll just have to find a different molding product if I want to continue to use Kato Sauce.

<<I know that I had to make changes for curing solid Kato pieces>>

So is the baking soda working OK for you? I had stopped using Kato because of the cracking on #1 PM thick pieces 1 1/2 years. If the baking soda works maybe I'll try it again.

<<.....but burying something made with LIQUID Kato in baking soda uh....just would NOT work!>>

Yepper <G!> Actually it's not really that the mold pulls are cracking. It's that some reaction between chemicals/metals in the AMP mold is causing the Kato Sauce not to cure properly and it never really gets cured-clay hard.

Happy Claying!
Anita in AZ
http://MelodyODesigns.artfire.com/
www.melobeau.blogspot.com/
www.flickr.com/photos/melobeau/

 

 
From: Kim (KCREDCAT) DelphiPlus Member Icon5/5/12 1:10 AM 
To: Melody01  (4 of 16) 
 69448.4 in reply to 69448.3 
the cracking I had was on thicker items...never on things at the thickest PM setting...that's odd.  I made a whole bunch of things at retreat last month that were basically lentils...over my paint tray bottom and metal spoons and they turned out terrific...didn't even tent them (or heat sinking w/ baking soda)...but cured at 300 degrees, no stepping, no cold oven....figured they were 'thin' enough...and it seems to have worked, and I've got a few of them halfway through my sanding grits and haven't seen any problems yet.

yepper on that 'learning curve' (I typed 'curse' first! LOL that might be more the matter than curve! LOL) 

my pieces that had cracking were more like 1/2" thick or more...and some were made over Ultralight cores....which likely was a problem...and didn't KNOW or realize that the NEWER clay had to be cured at 300+...  I'm using my baking soda 'heat sink' inside a closed/lidded tin.

I hear ya on the liquid clay not curing...never had that problem...but understand the frustration...  I remember issues with using the Miracle Mold with certain types of rubber stamps...think it might have been the aluminum in the rubber or some such thing... been ages...sure the info is somewhere (maybe glassattic.com)

between us clayers we'll figure out SOME WAY to make the changes work....of course once we DO.... they'll make MORE CHANGES!!!!!!!!!! ack!!!!!!!!!!

Kim
K.C. Redcat
 

 
From: DesertRubble (boozersworld)5/5/12 8:14 AM 
To: Melody01  (5 of 16) 
 69448.5 in reply to 69448.1 
As frustrating as Premo is for me to work with I do use it to make an object if I'm going to be using a mold putty. Have something I cured last night in fact to mold today, premo drives me crazy though, but you do what you gotta do.

Lynn


 

 
From: Melody015/5/12 8:19 AM 
To: Kim (KCREDCAT) DelphiPlus Member Icon  (6 of 16) 
 69448.6 in reply to 69448.4 

Hi Kim, How wonderful that your Kato "retreat" lentils cure without cracking. Hope we'll be seeing photos.

Your experience with not having Kato PM#1 pieces crack, but having thicker pieces crack is interesting. My previous experience with Kato cracking at PM#1 must have been directly after the formula change, because neither Donna nor Tony seemed to be aware that there was a problem at the time. I make a series of cats pendants/brooches which are sort of my "bread and butter" sellers and about 1 1/2 years ago I lost well over 50 of them to cracking over a VERY LONG month of trials before I gave up and switched back to PREMO.

<<yepper on that 'learning curve' (I typed 'curse' first! LOL that might be more the matter than curve! LOL)....between us clayers we'll figure out SOME WAY to make the changes work....of course once we DO.... they'll make MORE CHANGES!!!!!!!!!! ack!!!!!!!!!!>>

Oh yeah! My past few months have been spent almost entirely on trying to learn to adapt my existing jewelry designs prototypes for use with NEW formulas of 3 brands of clay and learning 'Curse' would probably be FAR more accurate term than curve!!!!!!

<<my pieces that had cracking were more like 1/2" thick or more...and some were made over Ultralight cores....which likely was a problem...and didn't KNOW or realize that the NEWER clay had to be cured at 300+... I'm using my baking soda 'heat sink' inside a closed/lidded tin.>>

Thanks for this info. I have a design of thick appliqued beads with UL cores and I would like to use with white Kato. I will be forewarned now how to cure.

<<I hear ya on the liquid clay not curing...never had that problem...but understand the frustration... I remember issues with using the Miracle Mold with certain types of rubber stamps...think it might have been the aluminum in the rubber or some such thing... been ages...sure the info is somewhere (maybe glassattic.com)>>

Oh Yes, I remember that now. Sulphur, I think.

Happy Claying, and may ALL your pieces cure perfectly.

Anita in AZ
http://MelodyODesigns.artfire.com/
www.melobeau.blogspot.com/
www.flickr.com/photos/melobeau/

  • Edited 5/5/2012 8:23 am by Melody01
 

 
From: Melody015/5/12 8:26 AM 
To: DesertRubble (boozersworld)  (7 of 16) 
 69448.7 in reply to 69448.5 

Lynn, Interesting! I find I'm needing to leach new PREMO a lot to get it useable. May all your molds and mold pulls turn out perfectly!

Anita in AZ
http://MelodyODesigns.artfire.com/
www.melobeau.blogspot.com/
www.flickr.com/photos/melobeau/

 

 
From: Melody015/5/12 11:22 AM 
To: DesertRubble (boozersworld)  (8 of 16) 
 69448.8 in reply to 69448.5 

<<as frustrating as Premo is for me to work with I do use it to make an object if I'm going to be using a mold putty. Have something I cured last night in fact to mold today, premo drives me crazy though, but you do what you gotta do.>>

Lynn, I forgot to ask, do you use PREMO to make your object (to use with mold putty) because you're afraid of cracking your master when it cures, or because of mold incompatibility, or.....?

Anita in AZ
http://MelodyODesigns.artfire.com/
www.melobeau.blogspot.com/
www.flickr.com/photos/melobeau/

 

 
From: DesertRubble (boozersworld)5/5/12 11:50 AM 
To: Melody01  (9 of 16) 
 69448.9 in reply to 69448.8 
Mold incompatibility. The only problem I've had with kato cracking is on beads that are on a metal skewer during curing. My theory is maybe the metal I'm using is expanding during curing and isn't contracting during cooling as quickly as the kato does, causing the kato to cracking. I see no other reason for it, that's the only time I have cracking and I'll have other, similarly sized items curing at the same time that are not cracking.
Lynn
 

 
From: Melody015/5/12 1:22 PM 
To: DesertRubble (boozersworld)  (10 of 16) 
 69448.10 in reply to 69448.9 

Hi Lynn, Thanks for your reply! You're the first other person I've heard of who has also experienced mold incompatibility with Kato. Nice to know maybe it's not just me doing something wrong I hadn't considered.

In a previous post I had lost and just found, Jeff (Ravenson 469) had an interesting idea about coating the master piece with polyurethane to seal it prior to using it to create a mold with an incompatible molding compound. Interesting idea, but I haven't had call to try it yet.
http://forums.delphiforums.com/polymerclay/messages?msg=66828.12

Interesting observation on your cracking Kato and the metal skewer. The cracking of thicker Kato is crazy with some getting it and some not. So many variables! I do wish there were more science and consistency working with PC. I spend WAY to much of my time trying to figure out the inconsistencies.

Anita in AZ
http://MelodyODesigns.artfire.com/
www.melobeau.blogspot.com/
www.flickr.com/photos/melobeau/

 

 
Navigate this discussion: 1-10 11-16
Adjust text size:
Using a mobile device? Switch to the Mobile Site.

Welcome, guest! Get more out of Delphi Forums by logging in.

New to Delphi Forums? You can log in with your Facebook, Twitter, or Google account or use the New Member Login option and log in with any email address.

Home | Help | Forums | Chat | Blogs | Advertising | Membership Plans
© Delphi Forums LLC All rights reserved. Privacy Policy. Terms of Service.