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Well as I said before, I picked up a 2004 classic and rode it and fell in love. Wasn’t expecting that.
Been modifying; oil filter relocation, memphis shades bat wing faring and shorty windshield , cobra light bar, baron risers, full free flow exgaust exhaust.
Knowledge base rocks thanks Mick and to all contributors
Not sure I have made it through it all yet and still got to print out manual.
Getting ready to do AIS delete, fuel pump delete, PODS and jetting.
side note I have put thumb screw PMS on every CV carb I have modified or tuned and they are worth it. They are worth the extra cash especially on the 1100. Tight make it easy on yourself, that way you don’t have to settle on a so so tune because it’s just easy to get to those PMS screws. Just my opinion.
Ran into an article/opinion on PacificCoastCruisers? I think that is the name of the online company, basically they are saying PODs kill your bottom end and mid range, yet everyone does PODS and likes the results that I have read about. My experience with CV carbs and Yamaha “Mikuni” CV’s has been backing out the PMS screw and ensuring the de acceleration circuit and diaphragm are in good work order to minimize lean backfires. The principal behind a CV is sound for the evolution of a motorcycle carb as far as smooth operation across all RPMs. There are better performing carbs yes. Not the point. AIS makes more lean backfire issues especially with my free flow exhaust. Delete AIS, adjust PMS again when re jetting and tuning. All basic stuff. I have had to re jet to bigger jets on Keihin CV’s for Hondas and Harley’s after improving air flow. So what’s Pacific Coast Cruiser talking about with the plastic box be coming a vacuum reservoir to aid in quicker slide response? I am not saying I know Jack shizo and I’m not criticizing PCC.
Did Yamaha engineers come up with something? Or did Yamaha engineers have to come up with something to meet a smog standard?
A motorcycle carb is a variable (venturi). The slide goes up and down un like a automobile carb that has a static venturi.
Crack the slide wide open on a non CV and you lose air speed or vacuum until the engine catches up. In the old two stroke days and four strokes too, the down shift to WOT then speed shift up was the work around riding technique for bog. The birth/evolution of CV carbs. The slide goes up with the engine RPM/vacuum needs so snapping open the slide too quickly puts you right back into a bog or hesitation environment due to low vacuum, slower airspeed across the main jet therefore unable to signal or draw fuel from the bowl, the needed amount, to accelerate smoothly. Harley put an accelerator pump on their CV. Nice shot of fuel when you get your twist on.
Now I will stand corrected and please correct my understanding of things, that’s why I’m here to learn.
PPC is saying Yamaha had to incorporate the (box) to have vacuum in reserve to pull the slide up faster on acceleration? So by going to a POD system you trade your low and mid range for top end? Yes?
Seat of the pants opinions, dyno results would be awesome!!!!I’m always running into something new and my knowledge is old school so please enlighten me
1st off PCS is one of the least liked vendors around. Personally I would get it dialed in before removing the AIS, properly tuned there will be no popping on decel. Richening the pms and syncing usually takes care of it. As for Pods I never experienced any loss of power anywhere, great acceleration all thru the gears. Same after doing cams. Shane doesn't offer the Chubby anymore and you can find Tim on Facebook here Yamaha V* 1100 Riders | Facebook. A relay would be a good idea.
I , with the stock air cleaner, have the lean backfire under control kind of. Still a little rumbling on decel but livable not obnoxious.
If I may ask for clarity, are you suggesting keeping the AIS? If so what are the benefits besides the smog design to aid in burning off unburnt hydrocarbons?
In trying to navigate back here to this topic I ended up at your profile. WOW!!!!!! I didn’t know there were that many mods to do. Very inspirational and a blue print or check list of mods to look into. Very cool. Well done
If I remember correctly, going to go re read Knowledge Base on AIS after I’m done replying here, the AIS delete benefits are un clutter I like that, and lower operating temps, I like that too and a small weight loss.
I was hoping for a short cut on wiring. If a guy is going to do it, do it right. Laziness raises its ugly head every once in a while, thanks Donn for the correct answer and encouragement.
I am not familiar enough yet with this forum to know names associated with businesses. May I ask you to make the connections for me for Tim and Shane?
Also, I am a tech moron, so something like getting here was a challenge. Is there an app for my phone that comes straight here? Also this forum doesn’t seem to be made for phones and I do not have a PC or laptop to compare? Could not find how to get to this or different topics. Had to go back to email links. Didn’t realize they were all different links that’s how I ended up on your profile Donn.
Thanks for the reply and help.
What Donn is saying about the AIS is that you can keep it if you want, or remove it, it does nothing for performance. The bike can be tuned to not backfire with it, or without it.
Donn is right about Pacific Coast....their info on pods is flawed...to say the least.
It's a bit of a learning curve to navigate this forum, but you'll figure it out.
I am saying to tune it properly and then de clutter. Tim is Metric Magic and Shane has sscustomcycle. No phone app I am aware of and this Forum is still the best resource for info on a 1100. Here is my old 1100, I miss her.
Like Don said ... either way on the AIS ... I liked getting rid of all that extra tubing ...
As far as your running lights, mine were tapped into the running lights so they would of been on all the time but I had a small switch on right light to turn them off and on. The power plant in these vstars are not set up to run much extras. I had a warning light I got aftermarket monitoring the electrical system. With the running lights off ... it was green all the time but at night I would turn them on and if I was at a stop light ... the charging system was not keeping up with the extra wattage being used ... once I gave it some gas I would be back in the green.
Sounds like you installed different exhaust ... adding the pods will give you a nice bump in seat of the pants get up and go. I never noticed any lag in low end ... these 1100's love the high rpm's ... don't try riding it like a Harley.
The one thing I wanted to mention ... if it were me I would think twice about removing the fuel pump ... several did it here ... some had problems getting the gas in the corners specially with tank nearing bottom 1/4.
Thanks Mick for your reply and vote of confidence
Your right though I made my way back to this thread way faster tonight, like 30 minutes faster.That’s progress.
Thank you again for the knowledge base, I enjoy just reading it for fun.
Also thanks for clarification on the AIS.
The Pacific Coast article on PODs did throw me off a bit but I’m cool with learning new things so if there was anything to it I figured you all would know.
Moving forward on POD MOD
Thank you Donn,
AIS clarification steps, tune then declutter
Making the connections for me, if Shane isn’t selling “The Chubby” POD kit any longer do you happen to know if Tim at Metric Magic is still offering a POD kit?
I don’t have a Facebook account my wife does so she looked at the link you provided but she said something about having to make friends before access to Tim’s Metric Magic store? That’s her deal and I probably screwed up that recant of what she said
Thanks for the pic of your ex.
Beautiful bike, made me sad though with the for sale sign on her.
Hope you got a new girl, a man shouldn’t be alone.
So many bikes so little time.
Hands down on this forum being the best. All yall my kind of people.
Thanks RC for the reply
The V Star charging system reminds me of my old Yamaha DT 250 and 360 2 stroke enduro days. Head light was anemic and at an idle would pulse with a very low dim light
Was thinking about LEDs, Head light and Driving lights to try to save watts and maybe increase lumens?
Good advice on the fuel pump. I will research it more. Just hard tailed my sons Honda 600 Shadow and put a Frisco tank and tank lift on it. Tank design (petcock location) is a consideration for sure. Very similar carb set up and fuel pump set up but runs fine on gravity. Frisco tank is a low volume tank so more fuel stops comes with the territory of cool.
In some high performance situations a high flow (Pringle) petcock is also necessary. I’m not sure the Mikuni’s or Keihin’s require fuel pressure to function but I really don’t know definitively . Might be tank design petcock size and location? Running into fuel delivery problems on a low tank in corners sounds like a tank design petcock design and petcock location.
I’ll have to look into it. Thanks for the tip
Yes sir, eliminate, relocate, declutter I am looking forward to the AIS delete and POD MOD
I believe Tim is still offering PODS and to gain access to the FB page you have to be approved by Mick or myself. When doing so we look at profiles and if we don't see a pic of a 1100 you don't gain access. That way we can weed out non owners, who doesn't have pics of their bike? I'm still in the saddle, I went to a Roadstar and then a 16 Road Glide Ultra and now on a 18 Road glide standard.