Latest 3/19/21 by Donn (99Orton)
Latest Jan-19 by Zonker1972
Latest Jan-19 by Zonker1972
Latest Jan-6 by crazeeharry
Latest Jan-4 by 2k1VStarRide
Latest Jan-1 by Sick Mick* (quick_mick)
Latest Dec-28 by Sick Mick* (quick_mick)
Latest Dec-24 by Donn (99Orton)
Latest Dec-22 by JMK1100 (JMK1000)
I have a older Brother in Merlin and my oldest and youngest daughters live in Allen Texas. Gimme a shout if you make it up this way. I love riding over to the coast and into the Redwoods a bit and of course Fish and Chips while over there.
Sounds like a plan and a great ride!!!!
Kinda funny, it's just the way it goes, I have found myself researching the knowledge base and not ordering any parts or making any progress on the Classic because of the depth of knowledge in the "Knowledge Base." I think I got things figured out, like with the PODs and as I'm looking through carb tuning I run into bench syncing, on bike syncing, YouTube videos, PDF downloads manometer builds, carb sync thumb screw up grade etc so I continue to dig and uncover more info and the depression in my couch gets deeper and the shop stays cold and dark.
What's happening to me?!?!
PCS missed the bandwagon, they came late to the table, missed the boat and now are dissing the pod set up.. well the moment you get your ride dialled in .. you'll notice the difference.. the power gains are all at the top end .. so it is possible to leave a couple of HP on the table in the bottom end .. but at 50 hp (stock) vs 60+ hp (pods) .. thats 20 % gain.. for a couple hundred buck pretty cheap gain I'd say...
Howdy Gradie and thanks for the reply
Your sentiments and experience prevail
My experience over the years is similar with air pumps. If you can get the air in you need to get it out and if you can get it out and have the capability to get more in then you pump more air but rarely do you run across such a pump as the 1100.
Your so absolutely correct that with such minimal investment and effort you get such great returns according to all that have chose to follow the direction and success of all those pioneers that have blazed the V Star 1100 trail since 1999 if I’m not mistaken. That’s really cool!!!!!!
My thanks to you and all those who have shared their experience, the seat of the pants total fun factor of the smooth and tune of the 1100. I can’t wait to see for myself and because of you and others sharing their experiences I have total confidence moving forward.
As far as PCS, they have their opinion too, although I am beginning to wonder what experiences they have had to be so contrary to all those success stories and all that data. It’s true, as you alter the base line design the torque and horsepower curves move around on the RPM scale. The beauty of the V Star 1100 is it is a lighter cruiser originally designed to pump air on the higher end of the scale and can afford it if those curves move a little further up the scale. I know my 1100 Classic, in it’s stock configuration, has no trouble getting off the line or getting out of its own way and I’m certain it will benefit from a smooth and tune. Besides the opinion/article on their website I see no other offerings of empirical or even anecdotal data. Well everyone has to believe in something, I believe I’ll have another shot. Fun stuff
So many MODS so little time.
Thank again Gradie
Thanks Ed.. It came at the right time in my life, all the children grown and have children.. 30 years of marriage out the window.. single and bored...had a good paying job.. retired after 40 yrs..SO... I must have been nuts.. spent a ton of cash playing and making mistakes.. so the info passed is a usually self-inflicted mistake somewhere down the line or a success ... unfortunately I retire, built a house in a different area.. enjoying the new life we have .. can't cross the border ... we're supposed to stay in our bubble.. so I'll have pull the carbs and due a deep clean...before she hits the road.. out of all the mods my 1100 has seen, the very best was the SS chubby pods with SS Boss 429 Cams... 147.5 mains & 17.5 pilots 2 shims on the rear carb and 1 on the front.. to even out the AFR between the 2 carbs.. what that did was make it smoother and RPMs climbed a wee bit faster.. dyno time showed that in seconds from zero to full RPM..the main thing is I had fun doing it .. met a ton of real cool people all over the USA .. its been awhile seeing each other...I think its time for a couple shots..
Hey Ron ,
sorry about the delayed reply Went back and checked my emails and the only unopened email I noticed from the forum that I had was from Don? I did not find an email notice of your response. I’m sure it was something I did or didn’t do to have missed it.
So made contact with Shane (SS) and Tim (Metric Magic) about POD kits and Cams.
Cams, drop in, stock valve spring huge wake up!!!!
Yeah I’m doing it
Shane doesn’t stock the Boss 429 cam anymore. Has to order 100 cams minimum and the cam sales slowed way down years ago so he can not justify tying up that much money. Totally understandable. Still has the SS Chubby under tank POD kits however.
Tim lost his wife with in the last year and closed the doors of Metric Magic. Not sure which happened first. Sorry for your loss brother.
Tim had a cool looking POD kit that brings the air filters out from under the tank and one option is polished copper elbows. My bike is black and root beer brown with pearl and I think a polished copper accent would look bitchen. I want sum.
Tim injured his hand recently and said that he would be willing to put together the “copper out from under the tank POD kit” after his hand heals and he has cams!!!!!!!!!!!! I do not know if Tim’s cams have a name like Shane’s (Boss 429) but if I’m correct Tim’s cams have a numerical Identity of “440.”
I am guessing Tim’s cams are similar to Shane’s cam profile and are drop in as well?
When I hear back from Tim we will get those MODS ordered up. Looking forward to that!!!!!!!!!
I have had a few warm days to test out my Memphis Shades fairing. I measured for it according to Memphis Shades instructions and the 5” windshield hit the mark.
After testing, fairing all the way forward and all the way back with a half helmet and sunglasses and a full face and visor as of right now the 5” is to short.
Below 55 it’s ok. At 65 mph the wind hitting my head starts to blur my vision. Above 80 it’s stupid, even with the full face. Duck down and the buffeting stops so anticipating this problem I ordered two windshields. I’ll be putting the 7” on next. More testing and results to come.
if anyone is wanting to put a Memphis Shades Bat Wing Fairing on their 2004 V Star 1100 Classic and a Cobra Driving Lights light bar THEY BOTH FIT without any modifications or interference. I called Memphis Shades and Cobra and could not get a definitive answer. I also searched the internet. I was unable to find out if the two would work together. However I am referring to myself the self proclaimed tech moron so my guess is that anybody else will do a quick search and find the answer I toiled over and was unsuccessful in finding. Also Shane at SS said he has sold the Cobra light bar for years and said it is totally fine to wire the driving lights according to the Cobra light bar instructions which is tapping into the blue wire running lights to stock light bar blinker running lights using the provided switch. I did just what Cobra said to and it works fine. Will probably re wire in the future to a handle bar switch with a relay, Shane at SS sells this switch as well. I wanted more space between my fairing and light bar so I could have full adjustment forward and back for airflow adjustment. I went to Ace Hardware with stock light bar screw in hand and bought 1/4” X 3/4” aluminum flat bar and longer screws to accommodate using three pieces of flat bar equaling 3/4” of spacer from stock light bar location. Laid out holes, drilled and polished the flat bar then re mounted light bar which gave me ample room between the backs of the driving lights and the fairing.
Also if anyone is wanting to put on “Barons” pull back risers (BA-7410-U 1 1/2” pull back, 4” of rise over stock) on 2004 V Star 1100 Classic with stock bars and cables, they will work without replacing cables. Some re routing and handle bar mount adjusting will be necessary. It has been said that on later V Star models, Yamaha shortened their cables and brake line making it necessary to use aftermarket cables and brake line to fit without binding or pulling.
So, Ron or any other OG V Star Guru’s, is there a rev limiter on these bikes? I have only ridden it twice. The first time was up and down the coast in San Diego with my son on his metric cruiser and we cruised stop light to stop light, little town to little town never really letting her eat large volumes of air.
During my Memphis Shades wind tunnel testing and doing some full pulls up to speed and beyond I hit what seemed to be a rev limiter?
Or dirty mains? Or I missed a hose somewhere?
Very irritating. I have no tach and am not familiar with the 1100 power band but she was still pulling hard when power just fell off with the sound of a rev limiter.
I’m at 4200’ elevation so stock jetting would be rich if anything and it feels even, not like a miss from one main jet being clogged. Doesn’t seem lean or starved but maybe? I never messed with the floats when I rebuilt them because they sat for a long time. New fuel filter of course but it might be clogged again from left over gas crap. 7 years with gas in the tank and carbs. Worst gas varnish and gas jello I have ever seen.Anyways searched the Knowledge Base, I’m there a lot these days
Not sure if a guy can edit a post so just wanted to make clear
”or in Texas (where) it’s 6 o’clock”
it reads “or in Texas here it’s 6 o’clock” which makes it sound like I’m in Texas, I’m not but my in-laws are in the hill country of Texas and can’t wait to take the Star there as well.
what a difference a “W” makes
So Ed .. some answers ...yes to rev limiter its around 6200rpms .. with the Dyna 3000 you can change it to 7000. with cams .. mine is at 8000 pistons cams double valve springs..
Cams Tim's 440 sidewinder cams are equal to Shane's Boss 429. Donn and I tested are hearts out to see which one was better. the final outcome= Equal
Pods Dragon Breath pods are cool to look at ... Shanes Chubbies hide under the tank.. I feel that under the tank one responds better.. but that's just me..
full pulls... yup you hit the limiter.. you can fix it by purchasing a Dyna 3000...
with my dyno time I learnt that you want to be bang on with the jets always start with the smallest and work your way up.. a larger jet doesn't mean more power.. its the AFR 13.5 - 14.0 that produces good consistent power.. my set up on the coast 147.5 mains, 17.5 pilots, 2 shims on the needle for the front carb. 1 on the rear.. (was needed to balance out the carbs) 429 cams, Dyna set at curve 5 RPMs 7000 ... now you have all my secrets...
Border .. I'm on the northern border.. 500 ft to the NNE of the Danville Border guard house..
you are the man!!!!! and an OG 1100 performance pioneer and thank you for willingly offering up information you paid so dearly for!!!!!!!!!
Seems like between you, Mick, Don, Shane, Tim you guys broke trail for those of us that have just showed up.
I am going to refer to myself as a blister that shows up after the work is done!!!!! Thank you to all you OG’s!!!!!!!! Trail Blazers
I am stoked that Shane and Tim’s cams from a dyno perspective are equal from a performance standpoint. Especially from a performance standpoint. It’s lucky for me Tim still has cams.
I would bet money on the “under tank” POD kits would have a better performance profile maybe even measurable on a dyno.
In my trade a 90 degree elbow added 10’ of resistance in calculating air flow for air conditioning. To much resistance (inches in mercury past .5”) would slow the air enough across the coil to ice it up. Slower air.
It looks to me that Tim’s set up is two 90’s to the carb as opposed to under-tank which looks like one 90? If so that would cause resistance. Physics is physics.
90’s create resistance period, buuuut I like the look everything is a trade off.
I was doing some math today and a 2021 Electra Glide weighs 781 pounds and has 90 horse which in its stock configuration is 8.7 pounds per horse power.
My Star Classic weighs 599 pounds and has 62 horse power which is 9.6 pounds per horsepower.
Stock to stock riding experience light and nimble and similar performance would give the nod to the Star.
However when you do some simple and economical upgrades for the Star you go from 62 HP to 78 HP I think is what Shane from SS told me. That takes a Star to a whole new riding experience level.
Cruiser, light, nimble, higher RPM longer winded power band and 7.67 pounds per horsepower. Whoooooooooooa!!!!!!!!!
If a guy wanted to take that even farther a 2021 Electra Glide is $18000 conservatively with no upgrades. That’s $200 per horsepower for a lower RPM, heavier riding experience.
Not a fair comparison but I got like way far south of $5000 into my Star so far, like really $3500 and by the time I get done with the MODS you all pioneered maybe $5000 probably less. That’s $64 per horsepower riding experience.
I’m OK with that, especially since I’m way poorer than our brothers that ride HD. Bottom line I like being in the wind and rode flat twin Beemers for a long time that’s 435 pounds and 1000 cc. Man we used to grind those valve covers off on the pavment.
Less aggressive riding style these days and trading a little performance for cool factor in my eyes is A OK with me, however I like to feel where the power drop off is and decided where I’m going to shift, I got to get a “Dyna 3000”, thanks for the info and tip. Man I hate that rev limiter. Yamaha did the same thing to my Rhino. Oh well I surely won’t hurt it trying to feel the seat of the pants powerband fall off Remember Ed you want a Cruiser for cruising. I have a wrist problem.
I am terrible with direction, I have never been lost but I have been turned around for a few daysSo 500’ NNE of Danville Boarder crossing sounds like you just might reside in Canada? Looked the area up, absolutely gorgeous. The riding both sides of the border must be spectacular. You surely don’t get that much green without plenty of rain so good rain gear would be part of your every day riding kit or a towel for you and your bike.
Ron, Mick and Myself can't take credit for the contents of the wKB, it was already developed when we arrived. Mick is now the keeper and does a fantastic job of keeping it updated. Ron did a kit that Shane offered at one time, it was the 502 kit. High compression pistons, heavy valve springs etc., I rode it once and even with the clutch slipping it was a rocket ship!
When I had my 1100 it would spank Softtails and I don't think there is any difference between exposed or under tank pods. Tim has exposed Pods on his bike and we run even. We have had several Meet and Greets over the years and have been able to meet and make lifelong friendships. A few of us are talking about getting together in June up near Eugene for a informal get together.
When you do cams get a dyna and set it at curve 3 and 6950 rev limit and let it rip, hit the limiter and shift! Just follow the KB for tuning in your situation.