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What Type Of Mask Do You Wear?   The Healthy You: Health and Fitness Polls

Started Dec-21 by kizmet1; 7425 views.
Showtalk said:

With all your knowledge and inventiveness I am surprised you haven't turned that into a business.

because I can't sell. I probably couldn't sell a bottle of water to a millionaire dying of dehydration in the desert.

If I had the gift of salesmanship I'd probably have a net worth more than 10k times what it presently is.

Showtalk said:

Isn’t it curious how our politicians all end up rich on the government paychecks? You have to wonder... If the only shower I got was with bottled water, I might skip it. That is a lot of bottles to open.

Big Government always feeds itself first, and the politicians are always first in line to live high on the public's dime. Just like Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, right up until the howling mobs derailed their gravy train.

Actually it only took about a bottle per "shower" and a couple of teaspoons of alcohol. Alcohol is excellent to wipe down one's more smell producing areas and lay waste to odor causing bacteria, as well as remove any excess oil from hair and skin.

Then clear water heated on a stove and wiped on with a sponge and removed with a towel, actually works surprisingly well.

I also had to wash some underwear and socks - same thing - about 4 bottles in a  stock pot, brought to a near boil, and another pot of similar size brought to about 120 degrees F with a little bit of detergent.

You can dip the soiled clothes in that, rub them over the water, dip a few more times until it's clean. Wring out thoroughly into the soapy water pot.

Then dip in the hot clean water. Soak for about 15 seconds. Swirl with tongs. Pull out, let most of it drain into the pot. Evaporation and the cold in the room will quickly cool the wet clothing to a safe handling temperature.

Wring those out thoroughly into the clean hot water pot, then hang from hooks on the ceiling to dry.

So you use about 8 small bottles but I had a half dozen 5 gallon bottles and got the water from those rather than the little bottles. We used the little bottles for drinking.

Once things thawed, and the water kiosk vending things were repaired and working again, I carried the empty 5 gallon jugs into town and refilled them.

Now I still have about 50 gallons of bottled water - 10 of the 5 gallon jugs, and at least another 10 cases (40 half liter bottles,  or 20 liters per case, for about 200 liters) stashed around. Many cases had been in the unheated shop building but PETE plastic will stretch as the water freezes solid. Larger 5 gallon bottles take longer to freeze due to the mass.

I took several large bottles that were mostly frozen, and made a little alcove out of loose concrete blocks, where the hot exhaust from the generator could swirl around and heat up stuff placed in there. I put bottles there, taking care to not let any get in the direct extremely hot (maybe 250 degree F) exhaust plume, but arranged where most of them were being exposed to about 100 degree gas.

The exhaust would blast into an edge of the circular arrangement of blocks, then swirl around the inside face of the block wall, spiraling upwards with convection, until it finally dissipated into the bitter cold air above.

As long as you have breathing air and apparatus, you can move around in the deadly carbon monoxide arranging frozen things to be thawed. You just walk upwind away from it when finished before shutting off the air tank and unsealing your mask.

The carbon monoxide will dissipate fast from your clothing, and it's harmless to your skin even at many times the concentration that would kill you very fast if inhaled.

Note the generator was about 100 feet from the house. But you can thaw almost anything in a hurry by partly trapping the exhaust and engine waste heat where it hits frozen stuff first before just dissipating into the air.

We ran it for 4 days solid. By the end of day 2, we had almost everything thawed where it could be carried indoors to keep it from re-freezing.

Now that spring is approaching (it was 81 degrees F today) it's time to pack all that stuff back to the freight containers to act as thermal mass when temperatures soar to 118 degrees in another couple of months.

WALTER784 said:

So you plug one end of this into your local power supply and when wrapped properly around the above ground water pipes, it keeps them from freezing.

Only if the power to the tape stays on. The GFCIs nuisance tripped when I switched to the generator and didn't know they had until it was too late. Something froze that it couldn't re-thaw, probably because animals had damaged insulation in many areas, and the riser shields normally keep the 3 feet from ground to faucets from freezing. But not when it stays well below freezing for almost 11 consecutive days, lows in the single digits to negative digits, highs barely in the lower 20s.

It is this vertical run I have to add heat tape to if we ever get another once in a century cold snap like that.

Same for the areas where the pipe emerges from the ground under the house.

I'm going to split pool noodles and use them over all the water lines above ground this summer, and then split some sewer pipe to armor the insulation and heat tape beneath, to keep animals from damaging it. This should be the last time in my lifetime everything freezes.

Another upgrade is I'm going to use some more of those 150 v-a industrial control transformers to use as isolation transformers, so capacitance coupling won't cause a false ground fault trip. Because in bitter cold, the heat tape is a critical load. I already have a thermostat circuit on them so they shut off when it warms up above about 45 degrees F, but I've measured the current draw at about 100 degrees F (typical summer) and the draw is only a couple of milliwatts per foot, effectively off.

Oh, the shield for the livestock trough heater to keep from melting plastic containers came in - about 2 weeks after it was needed. But I had used a variac to reduce the power to the 1,500 watt heater to only about 150 watts. For the small trough that was adequate, and it ran cool enough to not damage the plastic when the floating heater drifted to the side. It was still enough to keep it from freezing.

Showtalk said:

It’s not “news” anymore.

After downloading and installing Newspeak v-21.03.04 on a sandbox system and doing a reverse lookup from Newspeak to traditional 1950s American English, that translates to "propaganda".

WALTER784

From: WALTER784 

Mar-12

I use something like this around my water pipes too.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Pipe-Insulation-ORP11812/204760805

This site seems to have some good tips too.

https://www.thespruce.com/water-pipe-insulation-2718695

But the pictures all show copper pipes... we use PVC pipes!

FWIW

  • Edited March 12, 2021 2:34 am  by  WALTER784
Showtalk
Host

From: Showtalk 

Mar-12

You need a salesperson.

Showtalk
Host

From: Showtalk 

Mar-12

Those weather extremes are probably more challenging to deal with than the actual freeze was, because you need to do such different things to protect in sub zero weather than you do in soaring heat.  Your method seems so easy, you have to wonder why the rest of us never knew that.  We have become lazy with our washers and dryers.

WALTER784 said:

I use something like this around my water pipes too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-x-6-ft-Foam-Pipe-Insulation-ORP11812/204760805

I probably have that exact thing on some of my pipes. On others, I have been buying "pool noodles" and splitting them to use as pipe insulation, since they are thicker, made of the same stuff, and actually cheaper per foot.

What I need to do is finish "armoring" the pipes. You first tie-wrap the heat trace tape along the pipes. Then you slip the pool noodle segments over the pipe, and tape the split with something like Gorilla Tape after testing the heat tape runs.

Finally, you lay out sewer pipe to match the fresh water pipes. Once you've gotten the lengths right, you use a table saw to split the pipes and T fittings lengthwise. Now you can put the halves over the insulation and other pipe, and put them back together with hose clamps.

You don't need to glue the sewer pipe fittings. They are split lengthwise so they aren't watertight anyway. Their purpose is to protect the fragile foam from cats and other animals that will claw or chew the stuff during the other 3 seasons.

By denying animals access to the foam, it will be there and ready when it is needed that first bitter cold night in late November.

Showtalk said:

Your method seems so easy, you have to wonder why the rest of us never knew that. We have become lazy with our washers and dryers.

It's how our ancestors did it for most of human history up through World War 2, with the exception of those with wringer washers.

Evidently in the late 1930s through mid 1950s, my dad's family had a gasoline engine powered washing machine they ran out in the barn. It chugged along and agitated the clothes, and heat from the engine got the water hot so all the clothes were clean.

Then they ran the clothing through the wringer, and then hung them up on a clothesline in the barn when the weather was wet outside, or an outside clothesline when everything was dry and sunny.

I think my grandparents on that side of the family didn't get a clothes dryer until I was in high school. It was a gas powered dryer, not electric. Propane, actually, since they were on a farm out in the middle of nowhere.

While they have been deceased for 25 to nearly 40 years, I still retained a lot of the knowledge they passed along.

The average person in a high rise apartment or condo was just SOL during this latest outage. Most are outright prohibited from having any kind of flammable fuel or non-electric heating devices.

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