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Wooden dowels for irons...anyone done it   Golf Equipment

Started Oct-13 by HAX (CVeratanictu); 441 views.
HAX (CVeratanictu)

From: HAX (CVeratanictu)


So I am jacking around with a set of GS Pro Forged blades in 6-PW and a SCOR 55 and 60* head.




So far I have some Nippon NS Pro 1150GH stiff flex shafts.  I plan on building them as follows:

6-7 iron@ 37.5" long

8-PW Iron@37" long

55 and 60 @36.5"long

I am thinking 2* upright for lie angle should be good, but maybe 3, will see how they work when assembled. OH, and I got some snappy ferrules from Boyd Blade and Ferrule.  If you've not looked at their site...oh man, you're missing some cool stuff.

So as I was reading up trying to find some information on my other project...I read about inserting a wooden dowel in the tip of the shaft to make it 'sound' more solid, as well as dampen vibration.  I was intrigued, and went to my ACE Hardware and bought some 3/8" (these are .370 tip shafts) fluted hardwood dowels.  I drilled holes down the middle to allow air to pass through on installation.  I plan on assembling the clubs then coating the dowels with epoxy and tamping them down into the tip prior to installing grips.

I don't have a swing weight scale, but I can pretty much weigh everything and figure it out with charts and what not.  As every club is going to be long, I am a bit concerned that I am building a sledge hammer, but if worse come to worse, I will use some sort of counterweight in the butt end or something...I don't mind heavy, I just want balanced.

Have any of y'all used dowels or had them installed in your irons, or hit irons with dowels? Curious to see what y'all think.  I know Joe Kwok used to do this to irons in his 'blueprint' process.



Art.. (ArtMBGolf)

From: Art.. (ArtMBGolf)


In the old days wood dowels in the tips was done a lot.   I have not compared dowel to no dowel for feel.  
You are correct about adding tip weight, but it may not be much if you keep it to 1".   If you were building standard length irons,
it could be the same as a tip weight to reach a SW.    With your longer length, you will have a high SW.  If you butt weight to get to D2, then 
the total weight is high, if you are OK with that.  
Possibly with today's heads and shafts, clubs are solid enough.  You can use ProSoft to help with vibration. 
You can use extra Epoxy to act like the dowel, although that makes it more work if reusing the shafts later, but same with dowels.    
It's always fun to experiment.   Try one club first, in case you don't like it.  

j (Dustdevil8)

From: j (Dustdevil8)


A wooden dowel in the tip would probably make it play stiffer.

You can take a thicker straw, spiral wrap it with foam  one sided sticky weatherstripping and make your own Sensicore. Then shove it about 14 in. down the shaft. That should absorb the vibration if that's the main thing you're looking for.

As you might have guessed,  I've done pretty much everything like that.

The wooden dowel trick, like most such "tricks", is snake oil.

Macgregor did it to the irons I worked on back in the 60s and 70s, but I'd defy anyone to identify them in a blind test.


From: hardpan1


The first Titleist shafts also had dowels, pretty smelly after heating the hosels to pull the shafts :) 

HAX (CVeratanictu)

From: HAX (CVeratanictu)


I think up until recently, they offered this on their irons/blades.

I am going to try it out and see what's what.


From: RTee2


I tried that years ago with some forged blades, but I don't think it made a difference. One downside is that it's harder/impossible to add weight down the hosel for swingweighting purposes if you use the dowels.


From: RTee2


Hmmm, the dowel is only an inch or so long and is completely within the hosel, so it shouldn't affect shaft stiffness at all.


From: Dynamicist1


As a mechanical engineer who specializes in vibration/acoustics I do not think wooden dowels will not work as vibration dampers for your shafts.  They will add unnecessary weight.  These are cheap and should work for you: