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Those are terrific. Well done..
After quite a number of customer quilts look what I finally got on the machine. This is the one I was piecing blocks for at the retreat. I found the perfect wide back fabric and there was just enough and no extra left on the bolt, like 3" on either side of the top....wow, ment to be. I got the first row of the top of the arcs quilted, next is the center of those arcs, another row of the bottom. Not crazy fancy over the top but definitely heirloom with the formal feathers. I have been fiddling with what to quilt on this for months and yesterday it all came together.
re machine binding, do you sew to the back then pull to the front? I started doing that several months ago and I am sold. Definitely easier then trying to glue on the back and make sure I catch the fold. Sometimes my stitch line on the back isn't perfectly straight but I can live with it. I've even stopped pinning it at all, if I get near the corner and see I'm going to have a join/seam hit right at the mitre, I just cut a little bit off and rejoin the seam so that it lands before the corner. Most of the time it doesn't happen - sure saves a lot of time that I used to spend trying to position the seams to avoid corners. On the 4 quilts I just bound I only had to do that once, tho other times I've had to do it a couple of times on a quilt. still easier than the whole gluing, pinning mess I used to do. I do wish I could figure out how to not "wooble" so much on the corners. those still look a bit less than ideal
that is lovely! Are you able to just stitch the feathers or will you need to mark them? makes me a bit nervous just looking at it....
WOW! I love this! What a perfect design for a DWR!
I've done my bindings that way for years. I rarely use pins to hold the binding to the quilt; I just hold the binding in place with my fingers. Having said that, I *do* use a pin or two ... plus a skillets... when it comes time to do the mitered corners.
Like you I use to glue, than I just stopped and glued the corners. When I remembered that sewing into the 45 degree angle would always give me the correct seam allowance I stopped glueing. Now I just stop about two inches from the corner fold the binding to get a 45 degree crease, marking it if I don't think I can see the fold line under the needle. No matter what size you seam allowance the 45 degree crease gives the correct spot to stop. Hoping this makes sense. I also use the open toe foot.
I have found a good thread path and am using 5 different rulers. The feathers are all freehand, I have done them so much I can do them in my sleep.
Thank you. I was resisting the circle wreath in the center bur after trying a million other things I drew it out and decided that if I do a swirl on the inside then I just needed to go around the outside. I am going to make a little paper template for the last 2 or 3 feathers so the join will be perfect. Feathers are still my favorite freehand shape to quilt. You can fill a space pretty fast and they are very forgiving if you do not try to make them perfect. As I keep saying, be consistently inconsistent!
it was you guys here that convinced me to try the "back to front" method - now I'm a believer. I've also started making the seam a tiny smidge smaller so that pulling it around to the front isn't such a wrestling match. Also since most of my backings are fleece, I cannot iron them (it melts). So I use my thumbnail to press that seam down on the back before I flip it over.
Another tip I found recently and I think I prefer it - don't press the binding in half before you sew. Just fold it over as you sew. Previously when I pressed I'd come across a place where it wasn't pressed exactly in half, then I felt like I was fighting with it as I folded. Also as you wrap it around, the binding folds where it naturally should. Given the geometry it is not exactly in half due to the width of the fabric itself. I know you'll know what I mean with your mathematical mind. If nothing else it saves the step of pressing & makes it easier to store.
I might try gluing the corners on the next one, just to see if that helps prevent the wobble on the back. I think the wobble is caused by sewing over the pins in combination with the thickness of the folded fabric on the miter.